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jducoeur ([personal profile] jducoeur) wrote2008-12-12 11:42 pm
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Restaurant Review: Masa

I do far too much of our dinner shopping at Whole Foods in Winchester. It's obscenely expensive, but between the quality of the produce, fish and meat counters, and the convenient prepared foods for nights when I can't cope with cooking, I've become a semi-regular there.

So for months now, we've been watching as a new restaurant has slowly been built on the ashes of the long-dead Bear Rock Cafe, across the parking lot from Whole Foods. Masa Restaurant has been open in Boston for some time now, but they decided to open a suburban outpost in Woburn, on the Winchester line. Tonight was their opening, and since we had no other plans for Date Night, we decided to check it out. It's good enough to be worth a detailed review.

Let's get the negative out of the way first. Service was slow, and not in the good "letting you linger over drinks" way. It took over ten minutes before our waitress even showed her face to take our cocktail order, and things continued to be rather lackadaisacal after that. Since it was everyone's first night, we cut them some slack and didn't ding her on the tip, but that definitely needs to improve. (The couple next to us had it worse: they had arrived half an hour earlier than us, and the husband had to leave before they got their entree, to go home and pay the babysitter or something like that.)

On the other hand, the food was consistently excellent, from start to finish, and that *is* worth lingering over. They bill themselves as "new Southwestern", which is a fair description: they are to Southwestern food what Nouvelle Cuisine is to French and Fusion is to Asian. A little weird, creative, consistently interesting and tasty. (And apparently frequently shifting: the menu we had tonight bore only a passing resemblance to the PDF one on their website.)

The cocktails were specialty margaritas; unlike many such, these were far more than the usual tequila with a splash of something different. She got the Sangria Margarita, which was good but IMO perhaps misnamed -- it had a sufficiently distinct element of cinnamon that it almost came across more as a Mulled Wine Margarita, sweet and warming. I got the Smoked Jalepeno Margarita, which was every bit as spicy as it sounds, while still being sweet and flavorful: a total winner, but the first time we've ever wanted chips to cool off from the drink.

Her appetizer was the Tuna Tartare -- almost a full burger's worth of raw tuna, covered with a like amount of pureed avacado. (Sadly, the flavor clashed horribly with the Sangria Margarita: two great tastes that don't taste great together.) I had the Muscovy Duck Quesadilla, which was small but rich enough to more than make up for it, with caramelized onions on top to balance the flavor.

For entree, she had a fine Steak Frites: an excellent cut of flank steak, juicy and rare but still tender enough to not need a steak knife, drenched in a lovely marinade that I couldn't even begin to deconstruct. I had the Seared Tilapia with Melted Leek Lardons: perfectly paired flavors of medium depth, flavorful without needing any sort of overwhelming sauce.

We split the Banana Flautas for dessert -- really a single banana in a crisp fried wrapper, cut in half and served with cinnamon creme fraiche and a chocolate drizzle.

In general, portions were medium-sized: not the sort of hearty portions typical of American restaurants, but not as precious and tiny as you often see in Nouvelle. The above was more food than we should have eaten, but not outrageous. (A more appropriate portion would have omitted the dessert, and possibly split an app.)

Prices are rather too high for routine Date Night, although not bad for a special occasion: it ran a tad over a hundred dollars before tax and tip.

The decor of the place is a bit more in-city-fancy than you usually see in the 'burbs, and much of the clientele dressed for it: I felt a bit underdressed in my everyday sweater, and some of the ladies there were in full Little Black Dress. Reservations recommended on busy nights, but there is walk-in space in the bar. And it wasn't horribly crowded, presumably due to the economy: it was full when we sat down at 8:30, but steadily emptied after that.

(Not tried, but also worth noting: they apparently have little $1 Tapas plates at the bar. And once they're settled in, they'll be starting weekend brunches and weekday lunches.)

Summary: a winner in every respect except service. Assuming they get their act together once they work out the kinks, it'll be an solid recommendation all around...

[identity profile] hfcougar.livejournal.com 2008-12-13 05:41 am (UTC)(link)
Out of curiosity, what is your idea of the optimal time frame for a waitperson to come back between seating and drink orders?

I have the problem at most restaurants that the waitstaff wants to take my drink order before I've even had a chance to crack the menu. If I'm ordering wine or beer, I want to see the list. If I'm getting a cocktail or fancy drink, I want to read the descriptions. Hell, even if I'm getting a soda, I'd like to see how much I'm going to be charged for it and whether I'm choosing from the Coke or Pepsi line.

There was almost death at McCormick and Schmick's a few days ago when I had to send the over-eager waiter away five times in ten minutes while my low blood sugar tried to muster enough brain cells to peruse the drink and appetizer menus. Not cool.

[identity profile] msmemory.livejournal.com 2008-12-13 01:54 pm (UTC)(link)
I had time to skim the specialty tequila menu (decide it was not of interest), really read the cocktail list, and choose my app and entree, before she came by for the cocktail order and to send the busboy with water.

In my view, if the customers have looked at the menu and both laid them aside, it's past time to ask for drink orders.

[identity profile] goldsquare.livejournal.com 2008-12-13 04:18 pm (UTC)(link)
I'll chime in on the general question, and [livejournal.com profile] msmemory is correct.

When one is seated, one should have menus. Someone should bring water. If there is a cocktail menu or a wine list, you use it to signal interest in an alcoholic beverage. When you set it aside, you are ready to order, or have decided not to. If you have decided on your drink without looking at the menu, you can ask for a waiter when your water is delivered.

Same with food. Once the menu's are set aside, it is time to pick up the food order.

[identity profile] goldsquare.livejournal.com 2008-12-13 04:16 pm (UTC)(link)
Thank you for the review.

That seems rather pricey for a "glass storefront next to a drug store" location, correct? Frankly, if they are going to charge Gargoyles On The Square prices or higher, they better have food that blows my mind. :-)

[identity profile] msmemory.livejournal.com 2008-12-13 04:44 pm (UTC)(link)
I found the food as good as Gargoyles', and would call Masa the best restaurant in greater Burlington at this point. (Burl-Woburn-Winchester-Bedford-Stoneham-Winchester).

[identity profile] goldsquare.livejournal.com 2008-12-13 04:49 pm (UTC)(link)
Woot!

I'm now looking forward to getting my eating-out budget back in order. :-)