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The thing about grilled salmon is that it is the only food I know that I can (more or less consistently) make better than any restaurant I've yet found. Getting it just right -- done, but still so soft and moist that it's almost liquid in the center, with some crispy bits but not burned anywhere -- requires getting the timing just right and serving promptly. Doing so in a restaurant setting, with the necessary compromises that imposes, is quite hard. But once you've got it right, it's not all that hard on the home grill. (So long as you can get a consistently-shaped piece from the store.) And there are a hundred different sauces and rubs that you can apply to that basic formulation.

Put it together, and you have perhaps the perfect grill food. Steak tips are great (especially with the well-known Cook's Illustrated marinades), but salmon is perfect...

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July 2025

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