Gotha Spiriti Nobili

[jducoeur]

(CW: alcohol)

As many of my friends know, I am an Amaro Nerd. My booze collection contains more amari than most bars, and indeed more than the typical liquor store.

(I concluded some years back that I am very slightly OCD, which I channel in specific ways. One of them is allowing myself to get horribly completist about a few things, one of which is amari. This is slightly controlled by the rule that Kate has imposed: before buying a new bottle, I'm required to finish something, lest the collection completely take over the basement.)

For those who are going, "Okay, what the hell are you talking about?" -- Amaro is a ridiculously over-broad category of spirits that is particularly ill-defined; it is almost "everything that doesn't have a better name". Italy is the heart of amari, although there are plenty native to the US (Malort is, god help us, pretty clearly a terrifying variant of amaro) and lots that basically fit under that term in many countries of Europe.

They tend to be more bitter than other drinks. (Although not always.) They tend not to be very sweet. (Although some are fairly sweet.) They often involve herbal flavors, and often spices. Some are very strong (up to 100+ proof); others are basically just infused wines. There's a lot of "you know it when you taste it" involved, but really -- if it doesn't fall into another category of booze, there's a decent chance that it qualifies.

Anyway...

During the food tour the other night, I asked about regional amari, and our tour guide recommended that I try Blu. I didn't try it that night, but looking it up, I discovered that the makers were only about a mile from where we are staying in Bologna. So while Kate had a sit-down this afternoon, I wandered over there.

It turns out that Gothi Spiriti Nobili basically operate out of a local bar -- I walked right on past them before re-checking the address and doubling back. They have a whole line of spirits, so I sat down and ordered several. (Hence my burbliness this evening -- I get talkative when tipsy.) Let's review.

• Blu is practically unique -- a Scotch-based amaro, which is something I've never come across before. It's a gentle and refined sipper, which lets the Scotch shine through (highland-style, not much smoke or peat), with a hint of anise from absinthe, and a slight salinity from using seawater in the blend. (This is apparently a hallmark of Gothi.)
• Settemezzo is an artichoke-based digestif (don't be shocked -- artichoke is a fairly common basis for amari), again pretty refined rather than overpowering in the way many German digestifs run. (Or punch-you-in-the-face licorice like an anisette.) Also a fine sipper, although I wish I'd ordered it straight up instead of on the rocks, which diluted its flavor too much.
• Bitter Allko is roughly in the Campari category, with the characteristic bright red warning-sign color, but better straight than Campari or indeed most of that category. Citrusy, peppery -- not as refined, but slightly sweeter and stronger in flavor, possibly my favorite of the bunch.
• Towards the end, I got into a conversation with the brewmaster's brother, and he encouraged me to try a taste of the Drai Vermouth, which is just plain hard to described. It's grapefruit-based, leaning more heavily into the characteristic salinity with both seawater and capers -- I'm not sure I'd want to drink a glass of it straight, but it would make for some fascinating cocktails.

Overall, delightful stuff. They do apparently import to the US via Oliver McCrum Wines and Spirits in California; I may have to chat with Ball Square Fine Wines and encourage them to check it out...