The Road to Hana
Sep. 29th, 2021 04:09 pmAs our Hawaii trip draws to a close, I'm thinking about the significant highlights. And one of them is just about the ultimate example of "It's about the journey, not the destination": Hana.
For those who have never studied a map of Hawaii (as I hadn't before we planned this trip), Maui is kind of two islands joined at the hip. To the left (west) is the smaller lobe -- due to the way trade winds work, that is the hotter, drier side of the island. (For the same reasons why Kona is the hot, dry side of the big island.) That is exemplified by Lahaina, the tourist center where we have spent most of the week. To the right (east) is the bigger lobe, which is wetter and lusher. That has one small town of note: Hana, at the eastern end of the island.
Hana is quite small. The "downtown" stretch includes something like seven places to eat, of which five are food trucks and one is the fancy resort. There are several other places to stay (including the Hana Inn, a six-room place where we spent the night), but it's not the kind of place you go to for the town.
The reason you go to Hana is for the drive itself. The Road to Hana (Route 360) is a tiny, torturous, gorgeous road along the north edge of eastern Maui. It's only about 30 miles long, which makes it sound like a quick little there-and-back, and that's how most tourists do it: they land in Maui, immediately head east, turn around and drive back.
What that misses is that this is a slow road, and best treated as such. If you know state Route 1 down the California coast, the Road to Hana is a lot like that, but ten thousand times as lush and considerably less terrifying.
Like Route 1, you're basically driving along cliffside for much of it, so this is not a drive I recommend to timid drivers. But the speed limits are far more sensible: the road is mostly marked with a no-kidding-we-mean-it 25 MPH limit, frequently marked 15 or even 10 MPH when going around curves. And you are never not going around curves: during the main part of the drive, I don't think the steering wheel is ever straight for more than maybe 50 yards. 90 degree curves are common, and 180-degree switchbacks aren't unusual.
Just to make this more fun, it is full of single-lane bridges, so you need to pause and yield to oncoming traffic on a frequent basis. I have to imagine that being in a rush on this road must be maddening. But driving it at the speed limit is positively Zen, even a bit relaxing. Turns that would be gut-wrenching terror at 30 miles per hour are fairly calm at 10, and just assuming that you are going to at least mostly stop at every bridge forces you to chill out.
(Yes, there are people who want to do it much faster. Fortunately, the people who built the road were smart, and there are pull-offs several times per mile. So when a tailgater starts climbing up your ass, you just get out of the way and let them pass.)
What makes all this worthwhile is the scenery. More than anywhere I've ever seen, you can count on every mile having at least one view that takes your breath away. Sometimes it is waterfalls, sometimes jungle canopies, sometimes crashing waves, sometimes a broad view of the mile-wide canyon that you are crawling along. Even for the driver (who needs to keep their eyes on the road) it's pretty great; the passengers get to really enjoy. It's basically a two to three hour journey through some of the greatest beauty possible, surrounded by an endless variety of greenery.
There are also many places to pull over and see the sights. Our guidebook provided a fine mile-by-mile breakdown of the options, and we did several, ranging from the slightly crowded little park with a lovely waterfall to the mile-long drive down a side road, followed by a hike down to the shoreline, leading to the best coastal view we found in all of Hawaii. It's worth planning some of these little side-treks.
Note that it will rain on you at some point: you're in a rainforest here, so just build that into your assumptions. Again, so long as you are going slow, that's not a big deal.
So if you find yourself in Maui, that drive is my strongest recommendation. The destinations are decently nice, but that road is the reason to come here. Plan to stay overnight in Hana so that you can take your time, and don't get started eastward until the traffic dies down (around noonish). But do go a-wandering...