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While it was by no means the high point of the vacation, it's worth talking a little about the sheer craziness that is The Fremont Street Experience. The Golden Nugget is on Fremont Street, and yes, the "Experience" is part of the official name.

I had originally assumed that that was pretentious, but yeah -- it's an experience all right. For several blocks, it's a pedestrian plaza, and it is just about the loudest place I've ever been. It's almost civilized in the morning, but by midafternoon there are stages blasting cover bands and DJs every few blocks: mid-evening, we could barely hear each other yell, when standing side-by-side.

The street is covered with an arched roof, running the full several blocks, so it's hard to quite call it "outside". (I didn't mask, but I did seriously think about it.) The inside of the roof is completely lined with LEDs, showing graphics that may have sometimes been sync'ed to the music.

Approximately every hundred feet is a bar, serving on the street. Most of them have a wall of frozen drink machines -- which are served in yard glasses, of course.

It would all be horribly hot, but between the fact that it is roofed, and there are doors opening onto air-conditioned casinos everywhere, so it's actually weirdly pleasant until you step off of Fremont into the sun.

(All of this was made even crazier by the enormous festival of music, food, and general bacchanalia down in Container Park, at the end of the street, taking up something like sixteen square blocks that were closed off for the duration. Around 6pm, it turned into a river of pedestrians heading in that direction.)

Basically, the overall effect is Bourbon Street during Mardi Gras, except without the soul and the good music. It is, indeed, an experience -- but not really our style...

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No surprise (us being us), there are going to be a couple of posts about food. Let's talk about the surprise highlight -- Spring Mountain Road.

This is sometimes called Vegas' "Chinatown", but it's inaccurate in a couple of ways. First, it's not really a "town": rather, it's a linear strip several miles long and a couple of blocks wide. Second, it's by no means just Chinese -- it's a profusion of Asian cultures sitting side-by-side. And it's not just Asian: there's a bunch of other stuff around. But the notable aspect is the Asian markets, shops, and wow, so many restaurants.


The first day Downtown, while we had a car, we decided to wander down to Spring Mountain, explore a bit, and pick something up for dinner. In the interest of safety, we were trying to only eat inside restaurants that we really cared about, and while there were some patios along Fremont Street, there wasn't anything calling out to us for dinner. So it was time to explore takeout.

A recommendation in a guidebook led us to Sushi Neko, and that proved to be a remarkable win. No, the website isn't much to look at, but the sushi menu really is that big -- more importantly, it's surprisingly great.

That section titled "Spicy Roll"? They are not kidding. We like spicy, so we got both the "Little Tease Roll" and the "Call 911 Roll", both of which were ferocious, but also complex and tasty, and that applied to all the rolls we got: they ranged from better than average to excellent. And they know how to do takeout: all sauced rolls come with the toppings on the side. (We wound up with a lot of little tubs of different toppings.)

Suffice it to say, it was good enough that we went back again the next evening for a different set of rolls, and didn't regret it. Frankly, if we ever do wind up back in Vegas in less-Covid-concerned times, we'd love to eat in the restaurant and try more of the menu, which is full of things that didn't look like they would travel as well.


That said, while the sushi was great, it was the accidental snack that really blew me away.

We spent an hour in the late afternoon wandering around Spring Mountain Road, and quickly found ourselves tired and hot. So we were looking for a cold drink when we stumbled across Sweet Mong. The online menu isn't terribly unusual, but that's because it is aimed at takeout / delivery. What doesn't show up there is the Seoul Bingsoo. I had no idea what it was, but the guy behind the counter said, "Do you like shaved ice?", and that sounded appealing in the heat.

(Subsequent research indicates that it is a favorite dessert in South Korea, but this was the first time I've encountered it.)

When it came to our table (yes, out on the patio), the result was much more interesting than I had expected. As best I could figure out, this was (from bottom to top):

  • A mound of shaved, gently milky ice
  • A layer of glaze that quick-froze, melting and refreezing a little of the ice below it
  • Another layer of shaved ice
  • Another layer of glaze
  • A sprinkle of -- nuts? puffed rice? I'm not sure of all the bits, but it added lovely slight crunch
  • Pieces of chewy mochi
  • A mound of sweet red bean

Altogether it was fabulous -- easily four times as much as I'd been looking for in a snack, and I ate just about all of it anyway. Moderately sweet, cold, complex: it was just about the perfect dessert for a hot day.

Really, out of all the good food we had in Las Vegas (we'll get to the really fancy dinners in a later entry), that one dish was the one that left me going, "Wah -- wrong end of the country!". As far as I can tell, Sweet Mong is just that one little shop on Spring Mountain now, but it has shot to the tip-top of my list of places I want to see open in Davis Square. We've gotten past Maximum Thai and Peak Poke: fabulous shaved ice would be a fine addition to the neighborhood...

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Got back from vacation last night. We weren't quite comfortable planning for a return to Europe yet, so we decided to do something we've been talking about idly for years: a trip to Las Vegas and the Grand Canyon. We'd each only been there fairly briefly, and were curious.

So that's where we spent the last week or so, in a few parts:

  • Two days staying at the Golden Nugget in Downtown Las Vegas (aka "Glitter Gulch", the heart of the classic stereotype of LV)
  • One day staying at El Tovar in Grand Canyon Village on the South Rim
  • Three days at the MGM Grand, the third biggest hotel in the world, one of the ones that define The Strip (the stereotype of "modern" LV)

plus one travel day between each of those -- ten days total, including two in the air and two driving two and from the Canyon.

As usual, I'm going to do a series of posts about various high points, rather than a chronological travelogue. So let's get into it...

Planned entries (I'll come back and edit this as I add stuff):

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jducoeur

May 2025

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